Showing posts with label Vietnam. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vietnam. Show all posts

Sunday, November 23, 2008

Two tongues = handy

My cardiologist "aunt" from Hanoi came to visit for the weekend. It was entertaining. She took me to an exorbitant but mind-blowingly awesome buffet at a 5 star hotel yesterday. Srsly, there was like foie gras cooked on demand and a chocolate fountain. Then today we ended up at a "binh dan" restaurant. It was hilarious cos she was visibly, like, "holy shit this place is SO LOW CLASS". Whereas to me, a place with chairs that are more than stools 10cm off the ground and tablecloths is woah break the bank already. I've been eating at pavement stalls. She said it was the first time ever she'd been to one - having spent her whole life in Vietnam! I'm not sure whether she knows she's in the 1%. I wouldn't say she's a snob, just...removed. I'm still fascinated by her, though. Such a dynamic, complicated yet endearing modern woman in a society that's not really caught up yet - the stuff heroines of novels are made of. Her family's interesting too. Her mum was a ballet dancer, then joined the army's arts corps (who knew such a thing existed!), then switched into medicine and later Eastern medicine. She knows Portuguese fluently, having worked in Africa for some time. Her dad was a famous architect, and went to Cuba and France to work. Like, wtf, I didn't know there were people like that in Vietnam.

So I was farewelling her today when I got into a conversation with a xe om driver. He's a good bloke. Then one of his regulars came round, an Aussie. So began one of the funniest, most disjointed conversations in my life because while neither party could understand the other, I got both ends.

Dramatis personae:
1) Aussie: 61yo, Vietnam Vet, big, bluff, rough-house Queenslander with tatts and a beer gut. Doesn't speak any Vietnamese and probably thinks everyone should understand English. Likes giving the driver punches in the arm, the only way he can communicate.
2) Driver: 40ishyo bone-skinny, chain-smoking, gap-toothed. Doesn't speak English except for "yes", "no". Ducks when Aussie comes, having been smacked too many times.
3) Me: bemused and amused, in PJ shorts because wasn't planning to stay downstairs for long.

Snippets.
Driver: I have no idea where he wants me to take him! And he never pays me enough. He only pays 70 000 for a whole day's driving, I barely break even with the cost of petrol these days. I might as well stay at home. It's no holiday, being his driver.
Aussie: He keeps taking me in circles and asking for more money, the greedy bastard. I always shout him meals and cigarettes. It costs me 150 000 a day!

Driver: There was this girl who kept wanting money from him...she wanted him to buy her a motorbike! I tried to tell him to stay away.
Aussie: There was this girl - she's 38 but looks lots younger. Isn't she cute? *whips out phone*

Driver: I feel sorry for him despite his cheapness, because without me he'd have to take taxis everywhere. He's a good bloke.
Aussie: I'd punch the lights out of anyone who tried to lay a finger on him. He's a good bloke.

Driver: Did you see the powdered pills he put in his coffee? Can you ask what it is?
Me: Shit, I hope they didn't give me the wrong cup! I'm scared! I don't want to ask. He wants me to come up to his room to "fix his computer". I don't know what to do!
Driver: Oh my god. He loves flirting with girls. Don't go!
Aussie (oblivious): Can you ask him how I can buy some fairy lights, like up on that tree there?
Yes, I did drink from a cup potentially with white powder in it AND went to his room. I KNOW!!! I can feel the disapproval coming down the mother-daughter psychic connection line as we speak! But he left the door open in his room, and I poked my keys between my fingers as makeshift brass knuckles just in case. Nothing happened, thank Jeebus...I'd have no one to blame but myself. Fortune favours the extremely stupid sometimes.

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

It's a....squalling purple thing!

So I've been pretty crap at blogging Vietnam! I blame the shitbox wifi in my room. Sitting downstairs now glaring at my battery meter.

GUESS WHAT. Today I went to an obstetrics hospital. Borrowed scrubs and a student ID so I wouldn't look too conspicuous. What, that's totally legit!

It was awesome! And a little bit icky. But mostly awesome. I saw four births: one immediately afterwards (placenta still on the way), one C-section and two from start to finish. That is, we had a look of them before the "pushpushush!! HARDER! you can do better than that!!!" started. I even, ahem, assisted on one. That's to say, I felt the belly to see when it was taut, and was meant to yell at the mother to push and tap on the belly to help the contractions, except I was kinda shy and didn't fully understand the instructions.

The actual process of childbirth looks, um, kind of painful. When it's my turn, give me the frigging drugs already! And the cutting and sewing bit - only under lidocaine here - seems like torture. Eww. And the delivery suite wasn't very friendly. Women just lying there with their legs open, no one paying much attention to them. Is that the way to welcome a new life into the world? I entertained notions of having a hippie, birthing centre, water-birth, midwife type of thing, but then I can't be a doctor and forsake western medicine entirely hey. Maybe a hippie birthing centre next door to a major tertiary hospital. Also, yknow what? Newborns are so not cute. Maybe after they're cleaned up and oxygenated, not so much when cone-headed and purple and covered with dodgy slime and being held upside-down by the legs by a midwife who's suctioning said dodgy slime from its nose, mouth, and anus by the same apparatus (yes IN THAT ORDER, thank god).

My Viet student friend ultrasounded another woman's belly and after mucking around for a while trying to find it, we finally got the heartbeat. The mother's face lit up, as no doubt mothers' faces everywhere light up. My "omfg that rocks!!" grin was reflected in her face.

Monday, November 3, 2008

We sing with one voice

Remember how I was feeling like a stranger here? I've discovered these really are My People. See, in Australia, people look at me like I'm a weirdo whenever I randomly burst out singing in the street. Haven't they seen musicals?! But here in the motherland, EVERYONE does that. Bus drivers, roadside stall owners, cleaners, doctors in ED or surgery - elbow deep in someone's belly. They'll just be working then suddenly break into folk song mode and no one blinks an eye.

A genetic excuse!

(and a one, two, one two three four...jazz hands!)

Friday, October 31, 2008

Roxanne

I've been wondering why on earth there are clip-clopping high heel sounds above my room at the hotel at odd hours of the night. This evening, I get in the lift with a very cheerful man in business attire. My gaze wanders from him to the sign describing each floor. 1st & 2nd: wedding restaurant. 3rd: stock market company. 4th & 5th: hotel floors. 6th: massage parlour. 7th: sunset cafe.

I see the 6th floor button lit up, look back to the grinning man, remember the night-time clip-clops...and totally crack up in his face. Heh.

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Lost in interpretation

How could I forget this one? It's from Flynnie.
Dr (to nurse): You know, we really shouldn't take drug samples.
Rep: Why??
Dr: There's no such thing as a free lunch.
Rep: I'll bring some next time!
Dr: That's not what I...sigh. *takes drugs anyway*
There was more lost in translation at the conference I was just at. I died several times in lectures when Vietnamese audience-members would ask questions in heavily accented English, and the Australian or American lecturers would be totally "wtf?" but gamely give a detailed answer about a completely different topic and then say "did I answer your question?" and everyone ended up completely confused. I was tempted to offer my services as a Vietglish to English interpreter, but it was more fun silently cracking up. Heh. Bilingualness is so worth it for those moments. And then there was the hilarity of the simultaneous interpretation, with two waves of reaction to every joke, one delayed by half a minute, like an in-person satellite delay. The UN must be a barrel of laughs.

Monday, October 20, 2008

Broken hearts &c

No, not dead, arrested or deported! I'm in HN now attending this regional cardiology conference. No extremes of life and death to report - my days are now filled with lectures about things like the electrophysiological diagnosis of atrial flutters (who knew there were so many types?). Apart from bits of extreme detail about randomness such as Takotsubo "Broken Heart Syndrome" Cardiomyopathy, the main messsages I've gotten are: smoking bad. Fat bad. Exercise good, immobility bad. Vegetables and fruit good. Diabetes bad. Hypertension bad. Prevention is better than cure. Not a whole lot different from cardio week. It's weird, because some of the new research they're presenting seems to basically confirm the same old conclusions about risk factors rahrahrah. Surely the problem is WHAT TO DO about it.

Anyway, I was mentally drafting a post about discovering a whole new branch of my family tree for the first time ever but then I was distracted by someone else's family (Jerry is enbumped again! hehe awww). I'm related to a guy who's an instructor in the VC army, a paediatrician and an artist who moved to Germany and married Aryan. I bonded more with my grandfather's sister in one day than I have with him for my whole life, and now he's not well. And I have all these people looking out for me in VN, including my new aunt who's not the man-eating "I use you for citizenship! ha! ha!" she-devil we all automatically assume Vietnamese brides are.

Sleep now. More later maybe.

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Lost in translation

Scene: conversation with a mumbly patient with a jacket covering up her mouth.
Her: Doctor, I have pains / a fever / seizures / am pregnant with octuplets.
Me: You want a blanket?
Her: ???
Me: WANT. BLANKET?
Her: ???
Me: ???
(Both: Weirdo.)
*****
Scene: friendly, nerdy (does Vietnam make them otherwise?) and extremely loquacious Viet student accosts less friendly, less nerdy, taciturn Oz-Viet student. Note that he'd already talked to (= at) me about a) the cathedral in Dalat, b) his goldfish, c) how his parents met, d) how to read an abdominal ultrasound (appreciated) and e) domestic violence in VN. And asked what my religious convictions are and whether I was sad at my parents' divorce. Boundaries already! He got my e-mail and mobile number, mis dios.
Him: Talking to you, it's like honey is melting in my mouth.
Me: Errrr what?
Him: Like honey, you give nourishment to my voice.
(Me: But all I did was nod....twenty minutes ago!)
*****
Scene: a discussion about how (un)likely it is my children will speak Viet.
Five Foot Nothing Ortho Surgeon: You probably will marry a Westerner, right?
Me: Maybe, but possibly an Australian-born Vietnamese like me.
FFNOS: Not a Vietnamese-born Vietnamese?
Me: Most only come up to my shoulder. [forgetting his stature, as we were seated]
Others: LOL!
FFNOS: Some of history's greats were short! Napoleon said that a man's stature should be measured from his head to the sky, not from the ground to his head. Napoleon! Who else?
Others: Hitler?
FFNOS: Hitler! And Charlie Chaplin.
Me: I'm not really looking to marry Hitler or Charlie Chaplin.
*****
Scene: a man lying in bed, bored.
Me: So, what's wrong?
Him: Nothing.
Me: I mean, why are you in hospital?
Him: No reason. Nothing at all.
Me: ... You're here for a rest?
*****
Another time I thought that weedkiller - "thuoc co", literally "grass drug" - was some kind of herbal medicine. And I puzzled for ages about a lady with a presentation suggestive of gall stones, but who'd just had her gallbladder removed recently...until I realised that she'd said she'd just had her pancreas out, not her GB. Same difference right?

We had an Aussie in today and basically I was the language monkey, which I was happy to be. Me with my crapola Viet! It was a good day. Learned a few things, got the same provisional diagnosis as the doctor a few times, was useful to at least one person ("the toilet's outside on the right"...heh), didn't witness any more dust to dust, talked to people. Had delicious variation on bubble tea. And my new tailored pants fit well, MOST importantly. Still secretory though. Are lungs really that necessary? Can I just do away with mine?

Going to the enemy capital tomorrow. Yes, where they captured and tortured John McCain! Except I don't get to stay at the Hilton.

Monday, October 13, 2008

All in a day's work

Meals eaten in the last 48 hours: 2.
Sleep in the last 48 hours: 13. (3 + 10)
Self-medication (opiates! wheee!): lost count.
Dead people seen: lost count.
Open heart surgeries witnessed: 2.

I got up - note, not woke up - this morning. Showered. Put on my pants. Took off my pants because they had a dead woman's blood on them. Rummaged the laundry basket for my relatively cleaner white coat, the one that's not also contaminated by bodily fluids (at least not visibly). Swallowed codeine. Jumped on a taxi.

I was wrong, or unconsciously taking poetic license, because the floor and walls of ED are not white, but light grey, though they are indeed reflective. When I first came in the room was quite empty. God must've wanted to punish me for thinking so because before 9am there were already at least two brain-dead (I checked their pupils), a swathe of old people, five or so parties involved in a stabbing, an emaciated 30-something with massive cirrhosis, a maybe renal colic and more. One of the patients was about to be certified dead until he started breathing on his own! But I think he was still gone. All that before breakfast.

I haven't learned enough about death. I mean the clinical side of it. There was probably a learning target in first year that I pooh-pooh'd as fluff, but it's critical. When to stop CPR. When there's no hope of return. This is something that happens daily here. The first few days I just walked by the mini-ICU in ED a few times, not really knowing what was going on, but now I realise that the air pumping and chest thumping is most likely to be fruitless. My PBL training leads to determining causes, mechanisms and solutions, but leaves me high and dry when it comes to The End. As for the personal side....seeing the relatives grieving shook me up a bit, but the thing is, when someone's brought in barely alive, the transition to mostly dead isn't that obvious.

There wasn't a whole lot for me to do and I think Mr Intern wanted to give me a break from, yknow, death and destruction, so he took me upstairs to the cardiac surgery department. So, c'est vrai, surgery is just cutting stuff up then sewing it back together...but when the "stuff" is a LIVING BEATING HEART....dude, that is wicked rad. The heart guys are cooler than the ortho surgeons as well - the professor (God Himself) joked with me in excellent English and another one explained the repair of a Fallot's Tetralogy. When I started hacking up my lungs and swaying, I thought that was time to retreat.

My intern is becoming a friend. Imagine a small, deft, fine-fingered fellow with blinky myopic eyes behind thick glasses, square-cut hair, conscientious, finicky with hygiene at mealtimes and in surgery as befits an open heart surgeon to be. He spends his spare time studying (I KNOW!) and playing soccer and stuff with his friends, sometimes martial arts. He's so cute and gentlemanly - took me to the coughfakebookshopcough today and even offered to pay, and then drove me home. And he's a role model now too. He actually cares for his patients, in a setting where that's hard to do, and he is always seeking to learn more. Now I go around stage-whispering "he's a darling!". I sense he's got a little in reserve but I don't think this idol will turn out to have clay feet.

You know what I've been thinking about? Here doctors are really poorly remunerated, yet patients can still get an excellent standard of care. I have to give Mr Ortho props for the six gruelling hours he spent on that thumb...it only garnered him about 75 000 VND, which is about $7 AUD. The buying power isn't a lot either, given that a hospital lunch is about 30 000 VND. He could've just stitched the thumb on for aesthetic purposes, but instead took great care in connecting each tiny vessel and nerve. And Mr Intern probably gets paid even worse, but he stays overtime to make sure that his patients survive the handover and is meticulous in examining them. I've been taught (brainwashed) to think that a nation without rule of law must be corrupt and collapsing, each man for himself - and indeed there are horror stories about doctors giving sloppy care or sending patients for unnecessary operations because they have side deals with specialists. But there remains the integrity of individuals, the drive to excel at one's work and do good. It's heartening.

Unbearable whiteness of being

Home from my first ever graveyard shift in ED. It was a warzone last night. The combination of weekend drink-driving, rain and a motorbike nation is deadly. The room was full of head injuries, people vomiting and seizing and yelling and moaning and banging on their stretchers, many crudely restrained with their limbs tied to the the bed. Ears ripped off, partly severed fingers dangling, faces disfigured from swelling. Twice, power failures plunged us all into darkness. Patients and relatives kept clutching at me, "doctor, my arm is so sore, what can you do doctor", "doctor, help my son, please doctor", "doctor, the drip doesn't work". I don't know why they chose me out of the other students there - maybe because I look older, or because I'm not wearing the blue-striped coat that Viet students wear, or maybe because I haven't learnt the art of ignoring yet and still make eye contact. I felt helpless before such need, not having any answers, not knowing who to tell - just starting to get to recgonise the staff here. I didn't know whether to pass on their pleas or not? To my shame, in some cases I didn't do anything. But in the end I decided this was cowardice; it cost me nothing to ask. I napped a few fitful hours in the nurses' change room and wondered at how they could wake up immediately, get themselves impeccably neat, and head back into the fray at ungodly o'clock. It's practically heroic.

I did CPR for the first time on a real person. She was a middle-aged Jane Doe, with hair and skin tone revealing that she was probably a daughter of the war, half GI, half Vietnamese. Her feet were already blue. She had blood coming from her face; I couldn't tell if her upper lip was still there or not. The contents of her pockets were thrown on a tray: a wad of paper money, some silver jewellery, but no ID. I got some of her blood on my coat. When I returned from getting a scrub top from theatre as replacement, she was under a white sheet. Another first.

If this sounds emotionally flat, it is because I am. I'm washed out from the flu and from...I dunno, what's the noun for overwhelming? That. I'm curiously untraumatised. The glaring clinical whiteness of the ED - white-uniformed nurses, blinding white lights, reflective white floor, white walls, white doctors' coats - contrasts weirdly with the broken bodies lying there in pools of their own blood. It contributes to a sense of removal. Sure, I connected to a few people I interviewed and examined, but the innumberable semi-conscious head-injured started to blend in to each other, an undifferentiated mass of Them.

I'd like to say I feel that I've lost something, but I'm just tired.

Saturday, October 11, 2008

Bones and groans

Well I had a long rant yesterday that is Saved As Draft, and there shall it remain. Long story short: morning spent wrangling with bureaucracy. Brief period of awesome when I finally got things sorted and was introduced to ED (English speaking! program for international students! assigned to people who are keen to teach!). Invited to "dinner" by a young gentleman - actually lunch at about 10.30 in the morning. Nerdy, nice, semi-weird (check check check) but alas, a foot shorter than me. Then I was hauled off by Mr Ortho to see hand surgery. Ok, so seeing a thumb COMPLETELY SEVERED cleanly like an anatomical diagram, with the loose bit covered in ants, was pretty cool/gross. And the patient semi waking up mid-surgery was...interesting. But most of the SIX HOURS was watching someone poke at something invisible with something invisible - microsurgery. And then the rest of the night was also spent in ortho feeling like a useless sack because I can't for the life of me understand mask-muffled franglovietnamese instructions. Didn't help that the flipside of Mr Ortho's Alpha qualities (decisiveness, vigour) is impatient assholicness that rears its fugly head in theatre. At the end - 11pm, because I was going to stay with him on 24 hour call but threw in the towel - he said "the best thing I've seen you do all day is holding legs". A job a block of wood can do! Could've been more useful with a five minute tutorial on what's expected of me and what the bits and pieces are called, but no, I'm sure letting people know they're tards is a better way of getting things done. Well screw you, Mr Ortho, and screw your specialty. It's a waste of intelligence - glorified carpentry. After something like twelve hours, I'd be happy never to see any ortho surgery again in my life. I came home pissed off and depressed.

Did I say short? Heh. Still had some rant left in me.

However, today was fantastico. Worked the 2.30-9pm shift in ED, which meant yay extra sleep! But really, I heart ED. Instead of cursing my lack of Viet abilities, for once I was glad of what little I have, as I was able to take pretty decent histories. Really don't know how international students cope here, when history is like 80% of diagnosis, and so much learning requires explanation. (Not to discourage anyone who's planning to come here! depends on the program, staff and department I guess). I got to do a few procedures like blood-taking, IV cannulation (1/2 tries - better than my 1/6 record in Armi) and suturing, which is always funzies. And saw stuff like a pneumothorax, CPR, CVP measuring, emergency intubation, acute glaucoma and paraquat poisoning. ED is where the medicine is: a bit of everything, fresh patients, mysteries to figure out. A thrillion times better than bones bones bones!

Wednesday, October 8, 2008

Hog thoughts

This blog is going to be more of a pressure valve than ever, given that it's one of the only links to the English-speaking world I've got here. Translation: aquackening will be even more wanktastic than usual! I find when I'm isolated for too long I get all self-loathing and angsty. Will ask training dude about international students to befriend.

Musings from the back of a motorbike:
  • From the Idiot's Guide to Idiocy: riding a motorbike just after you've come from a ward full of people with pins and contraptions on their limbs, and surgery where you saw hammers, chisels, screwdrivers, power drills, pliers and nails applied to a HUMAN BODY - most as a result of motorbike accidents. Own damn fault if anything happens. But taxis are hard to catch back from hospital and slow and you don't get to ZOOMZOOM with the wind in your face.
  • Orthopaedics is just like mechanics except you're not allowed to scratch your nose. Ohmygod. The no-scratch thing should be used in Gitmo, it is serious torture. I'm going to invent a surgical itch stick.
  • Finally I know why everyone always think my name is Thuy Tien instead of Thao - for some reason Thuy Tien is the preferred name for dozens and dozens of restaurants here. FYI people: I do not serve pho.
  • Are you supposed to lean into bends or against them?! I reckon the former, but that's based on a half-remembered bit from The History Boys where the smarmy new teacher gets paralysed because he's unused to riding on the back of Mr History's bike (on which Mr History takes boys and feels them up). Um. I think. Alan Bennett: my life is in your hands.
  • My Viet is sometimes taken for native, and yet at other times entire sections of conversation whizz over my head because I don't understand key words, or I misunderstand and answer some totally different question. In the Romance languages, even those I don't know well, at least educated guessing is possible, but in Viet the etymology is often from Chinese, so all that's possible is a dopey Huh?! face. Serious damper on personality.

Friday, October 3, 2008

Crushes

My saviour has come. I should have known, he makes the lame walk! He is an orthopaedic surgeon at Choray, a ginormous hospital in Saigon town. He is tall and quick-eyed and is a man of action, which you can tell from his gait - I practically have to run to keep up with him. He's married and is, um, "friends" with my mum's (also married) cousin. Is coveting thy neighbour's (wife's) ass genetic?! My family is McWeird.

BUT, the good news is....drumroll, ladies and gentlemen...Mr Ortho has agreed to be my new supervisor!!! Get this. My old supervisor tells me to come in at 8am. I drag myself out of bed and go by xe om to the hospital, only to find out he's out at breakfast. So I pull out my laptop (having learned that long waits are to be expected). Finally he comes back, only to sit there twiddling his thumbs, deep in thought. So I sit there doing more laptop crap, breathing in more iatrogenic smoke, waiting til he decides to do something with me. Finally it clicks when he starts folding up his white coat...he's actually quitting his job TODAY! He takes me home again.

Compare this to Mr Ortho. Once I get back, we call him at around 10am. At 11.30, we meet him at the hospital. He asks what I want to do. On the spot I decide on Emergency, since that's where you get a bit of everything, plus I'm sure to see crazy stuff that I never would in Oz. He takes me there, introduces me to a guy who I'll follow around in ED, asks the lady in charge for permission, and takes me to the staff caf for an iced tea (yeah, I didn't follow my own advice about the ice and will probably pay for it! DIY oral rehydration, woot) while we wait for the training office to re-open. By about 1.15pm, it's all set, I just have to get an introduction letter from uni. Three hours after we started the ball rolling. You can understand why I walked around stage-whispering "I LOVE HIM!" and grinning.

This means I have accommodation, I have exciting stuff to do, I have a trustworthy supervisor, I don't have to breathe in any more slack doctor smoke, and I'm far away from a certain Shakespearean crackpot. I get to stay in the comfortably uncouth South, with the familiar accents and frank manners and plenty of contacts to rescue me if anything happens. All because Mr Ortho fancies my second cousin! Heh.

This is a REAL VN hospital, unlike the cushy semi-private one I was at previously. We arrived by taxi and could hardly even get off - it took ages to get to the curb because of the throng of motorbikes, bikes, pedestrians, peddlers, officials and other sundry bodies. Across the street, there's a booming side trade in quick meals to feed the hungry relatives (and indeed patients, because they often rely on outside food - not sure if they're even fed in hospital). You walk in and there are people on almost every available horizontal surface - there was a woman lying down on some newspaper right at the entrance, centimetres from being stepped on by the entering and departing crowds. It's often hard to tell the patients from the relatives. When trying to find Mr Ortho, we went on the scenic tour of the hospital as we were directed and misdirected all over the place. On the ortho clinic side, patients sit or lie in the coridoors, surrounded by anxious relatives, clutching whatever limb they've damaged. To go up or down a level, you have to brave the chaos of the elevators - the battle between wheelchairs, stretchers and doctors in a rush - or else take the stairs, which are also packed with people. In the ED, there aren't six beds as in Barmy or twelveish as at the hospital I was at previously - there are dozens and dozens of beds in rows like those shots of maternity wards, except instead of gurgling babies there are people in various states of silent distress. My home for the next seven weeks. Scary? Hell the frick yeah. Am I up to it? Errr....probably not. But who cares. Bring it on.

Sham-fricking-bolic

Ok, so Plan A was this: 2 weeks in Saigon, 6 weeks in Hanoi. However, after the Othello explosion, I was debating whether to continue with the original plan to go to HN, what with the risk of him going spazz at the thought of DevilSpawn (yours truly) working with Des. My presence cramps Des' style - she can't get out in case he tries some shit with me. Plus there's the added inconvenience of not having anywhere to stay - we do have some distant contacts (my mum's brother's soon-to-be-ex-wife's cousin twice removed or something) but a) I'm not keen to share a room and b) it's a big ask to have me for almost 2 months. Could stay in a hotel, but transport is a bit tricky.

Thus, Plan B was to stay in Saigon. Here, the doctor I'm with is my great-uncle's friend. Their family has a nice big house with room for me, plus kids to play with, and they have an English school which I could help with. I was only hemhawing about going here because we didn't know them well and because he's less in the loop about what the purpose of the placement is. The time here so far has been patchy: long periods of waiting around doing nothing, but then again yesterday I went with him on call and got to do some cool things, like take part in laparoscopic surgery, sew people up, test for appendicitis. Even got a case of subcutaneous emphysema (air under the skin from a broken rib stabbing a lung...the guy seriously looked and felt like a squishy balloon!). This kind of stuff convinced me that it'd be ok to stay here after all. Last night I was preparing to do the paperwork with the uni and hospital to make it official. I like the South, despite the heat, cos the people are straightforward and easygoing, as opposed to the Northerners' veneers and status games. But wait, there's more! Today we find out that this supervisor is resigning his job. He handed in his letter just this morning.

To think I went to VN partly because it'd be easier to organise. What a country. It's got an unique ability to drive one nuts. I think the problem is that we're entangled in a web of obligations, debts and favours here, at the mercy of others, and there are all these unwritten rules and traps. Bearshit is the inevitable result. In Oz we have atomised lives, not relying on anyone except nearest friends and family. Perhaps it's lonelier, but it's a hell of a lot more peaceful.

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Vietnam travel tips

  • Go to Saigon, Hanoi, Ha Long Bay, Sapa, Nha Trang, Hue and Dalat if at all possible. Take the train from Saigon to Hanoi, there's great scenery of rice paddies and hills and buffalos.
  • Don't drink the water or anything with ice, for this will end up with you hugging the toilet bowl, or worse, the squat toilet on the side of the road where the plumbing is a hole running down the mountain. FYI, a litre of water with one teaspoon of table salt and eight of sugar plus lime for flavour makes for a decent rehydration solution. Says Wikipedia, so it must be true.
  • Speaking of which, always bring your own supply of tissues and toilet paper. And work on your thigh and ankle muscles, you'll need em for squatting.
  • Do buy one of those face-mask type things that everyone wears. Helpful if you want to take a ride on a xe om ("hug taxi" - hop on the back of a motorbike and hold on for dear life. Quickest, cheapest, funnest, most lung-blackening and dangerous mode of travel). Also helpful if you're in the doctor's lounge in a hospital, and a senior surgeon is chain smoking in this small closed room with the windows shut, and you're too polite to leave. (PS. ERECTILE DYSFUNCTION!) If you're a smoker, this is your paradise.
  • Avoid raw vegetables and seafood if you're careful. Do try some of the street foods like sticky rice and noodle soups.
  • If you're on a tour and stop at a beach resort, remember to bring get your bathers from your suitcase, especially if the bus is parking 20 minutes away. Otherwise, an XXXL men's souvenir t-shirt will suffice, though beware of transparency and cling when wet. Whether you wear knickers with this ensemble is up to you - you need to make the choice between modesty in the ocean vs sitting on a bus for the next five hours with a wet bum - or commando. (hint: breezy!)
  • If you're an Asian girl, be prepared to be stared at like you're some kind mutant freak because of your Australian Weetbix-and-Vegemite-fed height ("are you a basketballer?" at 165cm!) - and, alas, girth.
  • If you're white, be prepared to be stared at like you're some kind of mutant freak...just because. And be prepared to be ripped off by every friendly-seeming local. There are actually different price lists printed for "international guests", and that's when they're being nice. Travel with a trusted local if you can. Take Vinasun taxis, they're the most reliable.
  • When you're feeling like a stranger in a strange, busy, hot, dirty land full of skinny little people who speak a language that's half familiar and half gobbledegook (racistpunlol), whose culture seems alien, and you are reduced to nodding and smiling like a dimwit bobblehead doll...be reassured that some things are the same everywhere. Anatomy. Hospital politics. The fact that surgeons wear those bandanna-like caps in theatre, while nurses and others wear the much less badass, but much more hygienic shower caps. The questions general surgeons always ask post-op: "have you been eating? pooing? peeing?".
  • If you're working in a hospital and you thought you knew Vietnamese, you don't. Buy a medical English-Viet dictionary. Curse yourself for learning a dead language for six years (no, not French! heh) instead of something useful. (ahh it was fun though)
  • You may want to reconsider going to Vietnam for a rotation if your patership is a very visible dissident in exile, because your host's pathologically jealous and delusional husband may follow her to a (chaste) nocturnal meeting with your uncle and accuse him of bringing news from patership with whom she's (falsely) alleged to be having an affair. Othello may then raid all of his wife's emails and mobile phone, call up her family and colleagues to badmouth her, change all the phone numbers in the house so no one can contact her, and forbid you to stay with them for you are the spawn of That Man. Worst of all, poor Des can't leave because if she does, he threatens to denounce her to the cops for her (non-existent) political connection with said armchair revolutionary - and people have been imprisoned for less in this land of justice and freedom for all (*cough*). Seriously, one of patership's colleagues - an Australian citizen! - was recently hauled in for questioning. Consider writing to the Australian embassy to explain the situation in case Grand Frere decides to mess with you or Des for shits and giggles.
  • An iPod or similar is a must if you're touring in a bus in which the driver plays Vietnamese folk music at full blast. Earplugs are recommended if you're staying in Saigon, because the blast of motorbike horns never stops, even in the middle of the night.
  • Wear sunscreen. Don't wear any precious jewellery or carry a handbag - try putting your stuff in a strong shopping bag. Keep a sharp eye on your belongings when on the move.

Monday, September 29, 2008

Just because I'm paranoid

...doesn't mean that the television isn't watching me!

For serious. Day 5 in VN and I'm wondering whether I'll have to get out by those same rickety boats. Man! All I wanted from this trip was to a) never enter a VN hospital lying down (and you thought the Australian public hospital system was bad...) and b) no melodrama of the hair-tearing variety.

One of the above is going well: I'm still standing, though mothership is currently undergoing the South (East Asia) Beach Diet...that's to say, massive gastro.

The other thing, not so great. My placement plans are in shambles due to a shitstorm that is some bizarre variation on Othello complete with misguided accusations of adultery and political intrigue. I'll write more when I can figure out how to protect the innocent. So far Desdemona hasn't copped it yet, but it's a possibility, and I could get dragged in as well.

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Jetsetter

Hello from Sydney Airport, waiting for the plane to Vietnam. Yes, already! I barely got off the plane from Airlie Beach!

Too brain-dead at the moment to think. More later from the behind the high walls of state-controlled internet! Woohoot. Can you believe I"m going back to the country from which my relatives had to flee in rickety boats, only thirty years ago? And am going to be living in the enemy capital? Then again I also learned the language of the foreign devil colonialists to tertiary level...while barely speaking  my alleged mother tongue. Irony lives!

Monday, February 25, 2008

Why this blog is like safety scissors

It has no point.

(Do I see eyes rolling?)

Anywho. So there's been this story/play idea rumbling around ever since Vietnam, based on a family I met. I've talked about the wife (H) a bit before here, she's the doctor and "family friend" who saved us from evil Bac Q's house in Hanoi. She won us all over, including my mum, who isn't the easiest to please, with her sweet disposition and gracious hosting. I was intrigued by her.

On the surface, especially in public settings with parents and elders around, she's the perfect well-bred Vietnamese lady. Considerate to a fault, always tends to other people's needs, says all the right things- lavish with praise, slow to criticise, self-deprecating. For example, my dad mentioned once or twice that he had trouble sleeping, so she bought him some herbal sleeping tablets for me to bring back to Australia. I found myself taking everything she said with a grain of salt because she took so much care not to hurt anyone's feelings that white lies weren't beyond her, like saying how much she loved our crappy presents.

Besides this Jane Bennet aspect, there's some Lizzy as well, in her quick-eyed observation, an instantaneous understanding of people and situations. The first time she came to meet us, my mum grabbed her in the alley moments after she arrived and told her to pretend to be my aunt to simplify things with Bac Q's family. Once inside, she understood immediately how to play along, and how her Specialist Doctor Aunt label would give us a boost in that status-conscious household/hell-hole where we were lower than dirt. Also Lizzyish is her lively, occasionally cheeky wit. I got to see more of this the day we went to hospital together. In our halting half-English half-Viet we managed to joke around a bit- I teased her for being so paranoid that she made me call my (pro-democracy shitstirrer) dad from a phone booth instead of from home, for fear of Big Brother; she jokingly asked whether I wanted to shoot her for being a puppet of the Commie state, as a government-employed doctor. That day was strange, because we kept shifting from egalitarian English to tortuous etiquette-bound Viet, from student-teacher roles to guest-host to joshing equals. Stressful but interesting. Though I appreciate observant and sharp-minded people, it's so much easier dealing with the thickheaded ones who don't notice all your gaucheness!

The comme-il-faut manners, the gentle tact, the lively eye and humour - these are still the outer layers of the onion. As the day progressed and she grew more tired and strained, I noticed impatience, though of course not with me. With her housekeeper, daughter, husband and mother she had a quietly sharp tongue. In this setting she's no longer the demure hostess, but the exacting head of the household. Underlying these contradictions - or are they really? - there is a deep sadness.

See, the reason we know her is through my uncle L. She came to Australia for a 6 month study visit last year and somehow befriended L. It was a weird relationship. He was estranged from his unfaithful wife at the time. H too was apparently in an unhappy marriage. According to my grandma, husband and wife lived on different floors, just staying in the same house for appearance's sake, and for their 7 year-old daughter TH. When H and L came over to my grandparents' house, they acted like lovers, flirting and joking. I assumed she was his girlfriend. Everyone accepted that. Although before we went to Vietnam L's wife had returned - somewhere in the bargain a new car was included! their sorry story will have to be told another time - the understanding was that H was still kindasorta his girlfriend. I admit I judged them a bit for that, she had a little kid and husband, he a wife, what were they thinking?! Though the "internally separated" explanation on her part seemed fair enough, and the husband and kid were only abstract concepts.

It was seeing H in her world that made the tragedy and complexity of the situation more real to me. They live in this perfect display-room house, with modcons and luxuries impressive even by Western standards, staff to take care of everything. Her husband T is a high-level engineer for the state. A sophisticated, soft-spoken, gentle-mannered man, he would appear to be a good match for H. Their daughter TH is precocious, whip-smart, destined to follow in her parents' high-achieving footsteps. From the outside they look like a model upper bourgeoisie family. The only thing missing in this picture? Love. Well it is there, but only for the daughter, which is probably why she's spoiled rotten. I think TH may not even know that her parents are semi-separated; they still go on family outings together and everything. You have to squint to spot the cracks. It's in how H and T call each other "Mother" and "Father" instead of the standard "Anh/Em" endearments, how they never touch or joke or speak to each other except about practical matters- Stepdork and mum looked like lovebirds in comparison, holding hands, feeding each other, scolding. But this is on close observation; otherwise, it's an unnervingly smooth pretense.

I see now why H went for my uncle, with his boyish mischievous charm and rough romance. It's also clear why she likes my family and is in regular contact with my grandma and dad. Despite our Bac Ky origins, we've adopted the frank and direct style of the South, so different from the frigid Northern politesse that rules in her house. At our dinner table everyone talks and debates politics and jokes, food is passed to and fro, and even with my crazy grandpa stirring trouble and my uncle's abrasive teasing it's warm and lively. In contrast, I imagine meals are a lonely time for H and T, as TH eats alone with her nanny and the parents both work late.

My grandma said that H's parents had divorced and she had suffered greatly for it, which is why she won't split with T. Grandma has advised her that she's doing the right thing by staying with him for TH's sake, giving her a stable environment. I don't agree. My uncle in Canada did the same thing - stayed in the same house with his ex until his kids were in uni. The last time I met him he was bitter and disillusioned. At 50-odd, he had nothing: no one to grow old with, kids he thought ungrateful and disobedient, his assets chipped away by a war-of-attrition divorce settlement case. And who's to say that having two parents in the house is going to make the kid any better adjusted? Bearing the burden of guilt later on, not having an example of a happy relationship, being stifled by love that has no other conduit...that can't be good for a kid. For all the dark twistyness and slow-healing scars, both parents and I are better off after their divorce I reckon. Look at how normal and well-adjusted I am! (spluttersnort). No but according to grandma, there are other barriers to H and T's divorce as well - something to do with losing face and lessening of a woman's worth. Even worse reasons, to my banana mind...though I can see how divorce would seem an ugly black mark and a failure to H, who's worked so hard for perfection or at least the appearance of it.

It's vaguely obscene to plunder someone's life for a story, but I can't help imagining how it'd play out - it's so inherently dramatic and tragic. Our layered heroine in her tangled dilemma - mother vs woman; an apparently idyllic family that is a sham; two lovely, lonely people seemingly so well suited, unable to live happily together, unable to break away to make their own lives. Is a happy ending even possible? In literature the poor woman always seems to shoot herself or go under a train or something. But just as terrible would be the more realistic end: long years of status quo, resignation, unfulfillment, bitterness. They both deserve more.

Monday, December 31, 2007

Nam

Sweet jeebus it's great to be home. So, so many stories to tell, I'm a bit overwhelmed by it all. Never fear, trusty unordered listage to the rescue!

The Good
  • Langkawi. I spent whole days lazing by the pool reading (The Kite Runner, thanks Chris' brother) and occasionally going for a dip. Gorgeous wide beach, not too overrun with tourists.
  • Cheapass and delicious Malaysian cuisine. Roti canai, Rotiboy buns, ice kachang, teh tarik, coconut, fruit smoothies and juice.
  • Cheapass Vietnamese food and drink.Best was banh mi thit (at Saigon's famous Nhu Lan bakery).
  • More cheapness: got a stack of fake Moleskines notebooks and sketchbooks, stationery, drawing pencils, some medbooks and a supply of DVDs to last me the whole year and then some. West Wing here I come!
  • A lot of fodder for an Amy Tan-esque novel that will never be written, about the flaming batshit that is Vietnamese family life.
  • My Viet improved. I was thinking in Viet and even managed to write a letter (unsent) even if I managed to misspell "I" every single time, frigging diacritics. Remind me to bitch some time about the ridiculous grammatical caste system whereby there are no fixed personal pronouns so that at EVERY SINGLE ENCOUNTER you have to work out your interlocutor's age and status relative to yourself and thus a simple question like "can you please pass me a pen" turns into a tongue-tying etiquette death trap.
  • Bonded with the mothership against common enemies. We're a team. I realised that for all the usual mother-daughter bickering, I'm fiercely loyal to her and vice versa.
  • Motorbike rides, baby! Too bad that they've just brought in helmet laws meaning that my hair doesn't get to blow sexily in the polluted wind.
  • Met some lovely people. Primo, Co H, a family friend of sorts, who gave me a personal guided tour of a Hanoi hospital and sheltered the five of us when we were kicked out of / ran screaming from Bac Q's house. I like her a lot - spirited, very sweet, with a cheeky humour. She was an almost painfully thoughtful and considerate hostess so that I was slightly stressed out at being on my best behaviour the whole time. Her husband Chu T was sweet as well. Probably will write more about them later - intricate and sad family circumstances. There was also Bac T's family in Hanoi. He gave me another hospital tour and kept teasing me in his incomprehensible northern accent. A good-natured bloke - I think he might be useful in dad's pro-democracy work. He's Everyman, made some astute and witty jokes about the political sitch. In Saigon there was the orthopaedic surgeon who took me to yet another hospital and patiently taught me how to stab people with sharp things. Basically did more hands-on meddy stuff in two days than in the whole of last year. Plenty of nice nurses there too who each taught me their own special technique, thoroughly confusing this hapless medkid. There's quite an art to getting drugs out of an ampoule I tell ya. Also in Saigon was another Bac T, an anaesthetist and Stepdork's childhood friend. Jolly and straightforward, such a change from the poisonous peoples in Hanoi (below).
  • Personal Growth. Learned plenty about my own numerous flaws (temper, acid tongue, impenetrable reserve, selfishness, etc etc) and hidden strengths (2008 = Tina takes no more shit year). Learned what kind of person I respect and want to be like (see above), and what kind of person I have to avoid becoming (see below).
The Bad
  • The initial awkward icy silence between me and the stepsisters. It lasted more than a week, but through our shared misadventures it's now thawed to a warmer truce. Not BFFs by a long way, but we can trade the odd joke or comment.
  • Learned to give injections ie. caused already sick people more pain by my clumsiness. Oh and managed to spill some poor patients' meds and make a mess. Worse still though, was how I found my compassion gland switching off. I couldn't see every single person as an individual human being - there were so many, with such horrific injuries (ortho ward), and there was the language barrier, and they just lay there passively. Not that any of that is an excuse. I didn't engage with them, I broke every rule of bedside manner that Newie has so carefully taught.
  • I'm a generally chilled out person, but somehow the stress of travel and family political bullshit reset my baseline mood to a constant pissed-offness, sometimes elevating to full-blown stinking rage to the point where I'm imagining smashing brick walls with a baseball bat and/or running into traffic.
  • Vietnam bathrooms. It's called SHOWER CURTAINS people!! A piece of plastic to stop the water splashing everywhere so you don't get a wet ass every time you go to the toilet! It's not rocket science!
  • Bac Ky (Northern Vietnamese) politesse. Related to the stupid pronouns above and also other linguistic formalities like forms of greeting and polite phrasing. But extends to how people are judged by their status - wealth, family position, education, age - and then treated accordingly (ie. like shit, if you aren't deemed worthy). It's bloody mediaeval. Even the nice northern people freaked me out with their politeness. God bless the frankness of English. NB. My paternal side is from the north but moved south after 1954 (fall of the French); my dad has never even been to Hanoi.
  • Vietnam street juice ie. the dodgy patches of wetness on the street that are a mere centimeter of plastic from parts of my body. Definitely not pure water either - one time we caught a dog nonchalantly pissing in the middle of the pavement.
  • Vietnam crowdedness and rule of the jungle. Spent Christmas eve in the middle of a throng of motorbikes and pollution. You risk your life every time you cross the street. You're a target for pickpockets and cheats wherever you go. Stepdork got his pants pocket slit (nothing important was in it) and at Saigon airport, the taxi registry guy stuck his hand into Stepdork's backpack and stole our camera! Huge screaming match shitball. Luckily mum had the presence of mind to look under the taxi and found the camera where he'd ditched it upon hearing Stepdork accuse him. This was about 15 minutes after we'd touched down in Saigon.
The Fugly
  • Staying with Bac Q in Hanoi. Oh my flord. I never knew there could be so many incredibly duckwitted jerks in one family. I thought Chu H, Stepdork's brother in Sydney, was bad enough. His mental age is about 13. He's a doctor, "just a GP" but has made shitloads of money and lets everyone know about it. Buys (and boasts about) the most expensive of everything- he gives his kids Louis Vuitton bags and $20k first class plane tickets and zero parenting or attention. I've watched him for ten years and have never seen him show any evidence of thinking about anyone but himself. BUT WAIT, THERE'S WORSE. Bac Q. He's Stepdork's 60+yo cousin and a former maths professor. Oh my god. I had a bad first impression as soon as we came in- barely a nod of welcome. I started disliking him when in his first conversation with my mother he asked her point blank "what do you do? I mean, what did you study at university? what do you mean, you didn't even go to university?!". I left the room at that point. I started hating him when he started to patronise her while at the same time bossing her around the kitchen and telling her off like she was his servant or a child. This is my mum, who can turn men to quivering jelly by the mere force of her glare! And my contempt for him was cemented when he made a speech on his wife's birthday. A masterpiece of vanity. He managed to spare about two sentences to grandiloquise about her virtues and then proceeded to talk for twenty minutes about his own qualifications and the glory of his family line. He actually brought out the equivalent of a Viet Cong Who's Who and pointed out his father's entry and then catalogued all his children's academic achievements and the dollar value of his properties. I didn't know whether to laugh or bash my head into a wall. In fact Stepdork was filming the occasion and thinking it was our video camera, I pulled magnificent faces and eye-rolls - only to find out later that it was Bac Q's vidcam! Apparently he thought I didn't understand Viet and was just bored at the length of the speech. If only he knew. Even more contemptible was how there was an abrupt about-face in how he treated me and mum after he found out that my "aunt" (Co H) was a cardiologist and that I was a med student. How he started fawning then. There's more to the Bac Q story that lead to us fleeing his house, let's save that for next time.
  • Ba Noi (stepgrandmother). Or, as I like to call her, B-I-T-C-H (to the tune of "Bingo was his name-o"). Dominates her husband and treats him like an infant- she actually forbade him to go get a coffee when he'd already gotten his coat and was almost at a door. "You won't be able to sleep so you will get skinny and then everyone will think you're a drug addict! And who will suffer? ME! Everyone will laugh at ME! How dare you be so selfish!" He's this gentle, quiet, harmless little man for whom coffee is the only escape from the witch. The worst was when we were leaving - both Bac Q AND she had to do some more speechifying. In her bit she repeated the whole "oh HOW I HAVE SUFFERED because of my husband" spiel again and then added a dig at my mum, who had taken pity on stepgrandfather and made him some coffee. She said she'd never liked my mum from the beginning but noooo, Stepdork was so disobedient. She also snarked at how having a university education was THE most important thing. This was in front of everyone, with mum and me and stepgrandfather all present! This was one of those internal baseball bat moments. I slightly regret not saying exactly what I was thinking. I did manage to finally interject "RESPECTFULLY, THAT'S ENOUGH WE GET IT GRANDMA, WE ARE GOING TO BE LATE FOR OUR APPOINTMENT". Later we heard that she'd bitched about my mum behind her back saying that she was a money-grubbing home-wrecker, which, if you know the history of my parents' divorce, is not only the worst insult but also the greatest irony. Apparently she also said I dressed like a beggar and that she'd slap me in my face for my intervention in a certain family crisis (more later on that). Just before we flew off, Stepdork phoned her again. Of course she was all hypocritically saccharine to us. I'm very proud to say I suppressed the urge to curse and instead beat her at her own slimy Bac Ky game with the following exchange in Viet (B = her, T = me):
B: I wish you happiness in the new year and hope you study well and get great exam results and--
T: Oh THANK YOU Grandma. You know I have to say how grateful I am that you have treated me JUST LIKE your very own grandchild.
B: You're welcome dear. Now when I come to Australia you have to promise to give me medical treatment!
T: Alas, I am a very stupid student. SO, SO STUPID. I guess you'll have to wait til S2 [ie. younger stepsister] graduates, she is far smarter than me.
B: No no no, [stepsisters' mother] has told me how brilliant you are, the girls always go to you with questions.
T: Oh, [stepsister's mother] and you are both TOO SWEET.
On balance, it wasn't THAT bad of a trip. Touristing-wise it was all deja vu since we basically retraced the trip mum and I took in 2004-5, only Langkawi was new. It was the people that made it maddening and interesting. The bitter drama just made more of an impression on me than the good stuff, but I'll take lessons from both. I've said it'll be a long time before I go back to Vietnam...I dunno now. Travelling in other countries, we only see the outside, have contact with other tourists and those who cater for tourists. More or less moving postcards. Only in Vietnam do we get plunged into the bubbling stew of human relationships with all the ensuing pain and humour.